From raw material to finished fabric, all Enzo Sartori fabrics go through a detailed and precise step-by-step process to produce fabrics of the highest quality and most efficient production
WASHINGThe first step to our fabric manufacturing process is crucial and paves the way for a clean and steady system. The wool must be cleaned and scoured, as raw wool materials contain lanolin, a compound that makes the material very oily to the touch. This scouring process involves soaking the wool in hot water, basic compounds, and other biodegradable surfactants to cleanse the wool of all impurities and dirt, ensuring the wools purification.
COMBINGFollowing immediately after washing, we proceed to comb through carded fibers. By combing the wool, additional snag fibers and dust are removed. As the fibers are straightened and separated, they are parallelly arranged and ready for the next step. This essential step ensures the results of pure and high-quality fabrics.
SPINNINGOnce our wool is completely combed, straightened, and separated, the fibers are then attached to large spinning wheels. As the fibers are twisted at high-speeds, the tightened threads produce quality and uniform useable yarn. The spun yarn proceeds to be transferred and separated in preparation for dying the wool fibers before they are produced into fabric.
DYEINGThe importance of our fabrics' purity is essential prior to our fourth step: Dyeing our yarn. Our wool yarn is dyed using a precise combination of dye, liquid temperature, time, and pressure based on the colors we aim to achieve. After our wet yarns have been exhausted and the dye from the water has been absorbed, it is transferred to drying racks. By completing this step early in the process, the hues and saturations of the resulted color has more vibrance in individual fibers rather than the results of dyeing the fabric as a whole.
WARPINGThe dried wool is then assembled in a parallel position on a warping machine. Warping is the process of combining different yarns of related lengths together to form a single sheet of yarn. During this process, the threads run vertically and are wound onto a loom. As the process begins and the warp end of the fabrics are separated and equally spaced, they begin to get wound together on a drum. Warping plays a vital role in accelerating the next process for manufacturing woven fabrics. By interlacing these threads, a pattern and structure is generated for the weave.
WEAVINGAfter the warping process, threads are gathered and tied onto the front of the loom. When a warp and weft thread are alternatively interlaced at right angles to produce a fabric, the process is commonly known as weaving. The entire weaving operation is done on a machine known as a loom. Depending on the sequence these fabrics are interlaced, numerous geometric design and weave structures are able to be produced.
FINISHINGTo get the maximum performance out of the wool fabric after it is transferred off the loom, the weaving process needs to be ‘finished’. The fabrics are subjected to heat, friction, and damp environments to shrink and tighten the fabric. This treated fabric is then pressed with hot irons until it is completely dried. The finished product is trimmed, graded, and ready to be distributed!
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